The Best Guide to Barcelona*

 

*In my humble opinion 🙈

 
 

I ♥️ Barcelona. I’ve loved it since the moment I stepped out of the airport bus onto Plaza Catalunya for the very first time over a decade ago.

The grand tree-lined boulevards of the Eixample, the instantly recognisable architecture, the easygoing attitude of a mediterranean city (yet that doesn’t completely shut down in the off season)! Barcelona is buzzing with creative energy and there is something going on at all times.

In 2014 I spent a year living in a compact but beautiful studio apartment in the eaves of an old bank building, my balcony surrounded by carved cornicing with views over the rooftops to the gothic cathedral like a pointy ice cream cone in the distance.

I had the most fun imagineable, made friends from all over world and have always left a piece of my heart there. I’ve returned many times over the years and even got married near Barcelona in 2019!

I love spotting all the things that have changed upon each visit, and am often asked for my favourite addresses and things to do. So here are my favourite haunts in the Ciudad Condal from my time spent living there & all the lovely time I’ve spent there since!

(I originally put together this guide in March 2020, but have updated it in February 2022 as sadly some of my old favourites didn’t survive the tough times of the Pandemic. 🙁)

Getting There: I always use Skyscanner to compare and find the best possible flights (using the “whole month” search option when I’m flexible with dates).

Skip ahead to Breakfast & Brunch, Coffee, Easygoing Lunch Spots, Tapas, Celebration Dinners, Addresses By The Sea, Rooftop Terraces, Cocktail Bars, Things To Do & Where to Stay in Barcelona.

 

Breakfast & Brunch

Go-to places for breakfast, brunch, coffee and lunch…

Durango Diner

“The Most American Diner in Barcelona”, From the team behind The Fish and Chip Shop, they have a mechanical horse under a disco ball and the nicest service I’ve encountered in the city.

Insta / +34 931 25 34 48 / Aribau, 18

Brunch&Cake

Brunch & Cake

Brunch & Cake have several spots around the city, but my favourite is still the original space on Enric Granados.

Website / Insta / +34 900 670 692 / 'Enric Granados, 19

Billy Brunch

Serving breakfast dishes all day, every day, Billy Brunch is a super easygoing restaurant group with a passion for local ingredients. Keeping up with popular demand, they have opened several new venues. Their cafe on Muntaner has a lovely garden.

Website / Insta / Calle de Bailèn, 115 + Calle Muntaner, 64 + Caller Bailèn, 113 + Calle Blai, 28

The Hardware Société

The Hardware Société is a cafe born in Melbourne with outposts in Paris and now Barcelona. On a mission to redefine what breakfast and brunch can be, their motto is “No Eggs on Toast” and their menu is anything but typical.

Website / Menu / Insta / Carrer de Valencia, 193

Caravelle

Aussie owned Caravelle does delicious laid-back brunch really, really well.

Website / Insta / + 34 933 17 98 92 / Pintor Fortuny 31

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Robot House

Conceived by One Big Robot House creative agency as a space for the local community, this is a great spot for working with a laptop. There’s even a tiny book shop selling curated titles + an events programme for artists, writers and other creatives. The food is farm to table - and delicious !

Website / Insta / +34 933 42 90 62 / Carrer de Provença, 316

Bohl

Bohl

Close to Parc de la Ciutadella and the Arc de Triomf, Bohl is a calming minimalist space serving delicious porridge, açai and smoothie bowls for a healthy breakfast at any time of the day.

Website / Insta / +34 930 07 39 67 / Carrer de Tafalgar, 47

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Flax & Kale Tallers

Teresa Carles has built a health food empire in the city, with fresh cold-pressed juice and a gorgeous healthy brunch.

Website / Insta / +34 933 17 56 64 / Carrer dels Tallers, 74b

Cremat 11

Tucked down a Borne side street, Crema 11 serve the fluffiest pancakes in all of the land in a lovely chilled setting. They also have a great tapas menu and impressive cocktail list. They’ve opened a second location on Diputació (Cremates Lounge) for brunch, cocktails. and fusion cuisine in the evenings.

Website / Insta / +34 682 03 83 77 / Carrer Cremat Gran, 11 + Diputació 200

Coffee / Grab + Go

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Nomad

Nomad is an innovative multi-faceted company roasting, distributing and serving coffee from their beautiful coffee shops as well as hosting workshops covering everything from brewing basics to advanced coffee knowledge.

Website / Insta / +34 628 566 235 / Passatge Sert, 12 (El Born) + Carrer de Joaquín Costa, 26 (Raval) + Calle Pujades, 95 (Poble Nou)

Els 4 Gats

Iconic modernist-era meeting place for writers and artists like Picasso, Els 4 Gats is a Barcelona institution. Still so atmospheric, they host live music and art sessions.

Website / Insta / +34 933 02 41 40 / Carrer de Montsió, 3

Funky Bakers

A delicious collaboration between bread makers, artists, designers, bakers and chefs, using fresh local products and recipes from all over the world. Their deli is a small corner shop / bakery and they’ve just opened a beautiful eatery in the Born.

Website / Insta / +34 681 959 323 / Diputació, 347 (DELI) + Passeig del Born, 10 (EATERY)

LaBar

LaBar is a real working launderette turned cool coffee shop (the mix of fabric softener and coffee smells are a heady combo). They serve craft beers and wine with live music at weekends.

Website / Insta / +34 934 20 50 76 / Carrer de Consell de Cent, 44

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Satan’s Coffee Corner

I love Satan’s Coffee Corner! They have 2 x locations - one in the Gothic Quarter (on a quiet street by the Cathedral) and another smaller space at Casa Bonay, serving snacks, drinks and delicious coffee.

Website / Insta / L'Arc de Sant Ramón del Call 11 & Gran Vía, 700

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Mescladís El Pou

With bright, eclectic vintage furniture in a sun-trap courtyard in the Borne, super cool Mescladís is a brilliant social enterprise to generate employment opportunities for the socially excluded.

Website / Insta / +34 933 198 732 / Carrer dels Carders, 35

Easygoing Lunch Spots

(Almost all of the places mentioned above serve lunch and almost all of the following also serve brunch, but I’ve categorised them separately anyway).

Rooster & Bubbles

A new concept restaurant in the Born serving rotisserie chicken in salads or sandwiches, with a selection of delicious cava. Apparently “roast chicken and cava” was a popular combo in Barcelona back in the 1960s! I’m in!


Website / Insta / +34 93 295 56 68 / Pla de Palau, 12

El Japones Escondido

A new Izakaya (Japanese Tavern) by Grupo Tragaluz, serving delicious Sushi and Japanese Tapas just behind the port. Image by LEKUONASTUDIO

Website / Insta / +34 931992792 / Carrer de Llauder, 1

Casa Luz

On the roof of the recently opened Casa Luz Sonder Hotel in Universitat, the restaurant is flooded with warm light and feels like the perfect place for a long catch-up with an old friend. Their sunny terrace is dreamy!

Website / Insta / +34 676 90 93 10 / Rnda de la Universitat, 1

El Nacional

El Nacional elevates the term Food Court to dizzying heights! Housing many bars and restaurants under one, meticulously designed roof, this is brilliant place to impress a date or enjoy a lunch with yo mama.

Website / Insta / +34 935 185 053 / Passeig de Gracia, 24 bis

La Papa Barcelona

This divine new space in the Eixample serves healthy salads, soups and pastries, with a little boutique space and pavement terrazzo. Sustainability is at the heart of their business.

Website / Insta / ‭+34 722 175 186‬ / Carrer d'Aribau, 92

Honest Greens

With a growing number of restaurants in the city, Honest Greens was founded by 3 travellers (from the US, France and Denmark respectively) on a mission to make healthy living affordable and delicious. Mission accomplished.

Website / Insta / Rambla de Catalunya, 3 + Pla de Palau, 11

More newcomers I have have heard amazing things about include: Inquiet, Xuba Taxos and Gandul (specialising in charcuterie and small plates).

Tapas

Bar Del Pla

With vintage tiles and retro barstools, Bar del Pla appears deceptively traditional, but their menu is super creative (think chunky bravas alongside mushroom carpaccio with wasabi). Always book ahead!

Website / Insta / +34 932 683 003 / Carrer de Montcada, 2

Can Paixano

Family owned cava & tapas bar hidden behind enormous old wooden doors. Standing-room only but it's ridiculously affordable, with an amazing lively atmosphere!

Website / Insta / +34 933 100 839 / Carrer de la Reina Cristina, 7

Bar Brutal / Can Cisa

The most phenomenal contemporary tapas in a cosy taverna style spot in the Born. They serve a huge range of really interesting biodynamic wines.

Website / Insta / +34 932 954 797 / Calle de la Princesa, 14

Ciudad Condal

Ciudad Condal is a perpetually busy tapas institution. They don't take bookings so you put your name down and have a drink at the bar (so go before you're hungry!)

Website / Rambla de Catalunya, 18


Celebration Dinners

Gala

The place to be and be seen - inspired by Dalí’s wife and muse, expect blue sky frescoes, artsy details and an enormous sculpture of the artist’s nose. They also have a working Zoltan beside the nightclub in the basement.

Website / Insta / + 34 93 607 37 70 / Provença, 286

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The Green Spot

One of my favourite restaurants in Barcelona serving delicious vegetarian food in a seriously a cool setting behind the marina. Always book as it gets really popular in the high season. Follow them on Instagram as they announce great live music.

Website / Insta / +34 938 025 565 / Carrer de la Reina Cristina, 12

JOK

Recently opened in the space formerly occupied by Rilke, JOK is a magnificent Wes Andersonesque ballroom-like space with a formal dining room, cocktail bar, gardens and cool private hire spaces (the red room sits 8 in a private booth with wall to wall velvet). Yeah baby.

Website / Insta / +34 937648952 / Carrer de Mallorca, 275

Oleum

Òleum is set in the historic Throne Room of the Palau Nacional in the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya on Montjuic, with views to die for. Serving Mediterranean cuisine with top quality products, their €28 menu is great value.

Website / Insta / +34 932 89 06 79 / Palau Nacional, Parc de Montjuïc, s/n, 08038

Boca Grande

Elegant Boca Grande has witnessed many of my life’s biggest celebrations - my 21st birthday dinner, and hen party with the very same best friends many years later! The toilets are the coolest in all the land.

Website / Insta / +34 93 467 51 49 / Passatge de la Conceptció, 12

Cecconi’s

Soho House institution Cecconi’s is a modern-day classic Italian restaurant serving hand-made pasta, seafood and dishes from Northern Italy using the finest ingredients.

Website / Insta / +34 932 204 640 / Passeig de Colom, 20


By The Sea (Chiringuitos)

Camping Mar

This sunny, gorgeous address (also by the compania de lobos group) is a breath of fresh air in Barceloneta, serving “pica pica” and homemade rice dishes.

Website / Insta / +34 934 088 901 / Passeig Joan de Borbó, 103

La Guingueta de la Barceloneta

Located beside the “cubes” sculpture at Barceloneta, this is not your average Chiringuito. New project of top chefs Carles Abellán and Joan Escribà, the menu is as impressive as you would expect!

Website / Insta / Av. del Litoral. 62

Surf House

Surf House is a chilled beachfront spot for brunch and cocktails (they also rent paddle boards).

Website / Insta / +34 932 507 023 / Calle L’Almirall Aixada 22

Maka Maka

A 70’s-inspired burger cafe and watering hole popular with locals and travellers to share burgers, cocktails, and plenty of besos. Makamaka means ‘intimate friend’ in Hawaiian. A firm fixture on Joan de Borbo since 2021.

Website / Insta / +34 932 213 520 / Passeig Joan de Borbó, 76

Eye Scream & Friends

On your way back into town have an adorable ice cream with a face Eye Scream and Friends on Joan de Borbo! Cute AF!

Website / Insta / +34 932 215 310 / Paseo de Joan de Borbó, 30

Xiringito Escribà

Stop at family-run Xiringuito Escribà for the most renowned paella on the stretch. Founded in 1992, their seafood and rice dishes are supremely well known.

Website / +34 932 21 07 29 / Av. Litoral 62

Rooftop Terraces

La Isabela

From the packed Ramblas below, it’s hard to imagine this cool rooftop spot with comfy lounge beds and panoramic views of the city. A great secret to keep up your sleeve for refreshing cava overlooking the city’s prettiest rooftops.

Website / Insta / +34 935 529 552 / La Rambla, 109

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La Terrassa de les Indianes

The enormous terrace at 1881 Per Sagardi is set on the roof of the Museum of Catalan History (head through the atrium and take the lift to the top).

Website / Insta / +34 932 210 050 / Palau de Mar, Plaça Pau Vila, 3 (4a planta)

El Palace Hotel Rooftop

This leafy modernist garden terraza is home to a rooftop outdoor cinema and an ethereal atmosphere high above the rooftops, with twinkly lamp posts and plenty of romantic corners.


Website / Insta / +34 935 10 11 30 / Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes, 664

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Terraza Martínez

An impressive 300m2 terrace perched atop Montjuic with sweeping vistas of the port, old town and glittering Mediterranean. Prices are high for Barcelona but worth it for a really special occasion - their paella + views are *chef’s kiss*.

Website / Insta / + 34 93 106 60 52 / Carretera de Miramar, 38

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The Edition Barcelona

The Roof at The Edition Barcelona overlooks one of my favourite Barcelona neighbourhoods, the Born with views over the colourful Santa Caterina Market.

Website / Insta / +34 936 263 349 / Avinguda de Francesc Cambó, 14

Cotton House Hotel

This boutique hotel set in a restored textile factory in the Eixample has a lovely interior patio for G&Ts in the sunshine with friends - think huge leafy potted plants and summery wicker peacock thrones.

Website/ Insta / +34 934 505 045 / Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes, 670

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Roba Estesa

Hidden away among fragrant Jasmine and luscious greenery, the rooftop of Hotel Neri is an intimate, relaxed terrace.. Dreamy jazz pipes from discretely positioned speakers and it is super romantic.

Website / Insta / +34 93 304 06 55 / Carrer de Sant Sever, 5

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Attic Terrace

Claim a deck-chair or comfy lounge corner and gaze in awe upon Gaudi’s most breathtaking masterpiece from a unique vantage point. Surprisingly reasonable considering its location (though I haven’t tried the food)!

Website / +34 936 009 200 / Carrer Rosellón, 390

Pulitzer Hotel

Just off Plaza Catalunya, the rooftop at the design-centric Pulitzer is a perfect after work drink spot, with live music and DJ nights almost every evening in the high season.

Website / Insta / +34 934 81 67 67 / Calle Bergara, 8


Cocktail Bars

Sips Drinkery House

Sips is a new venture from two of the best bartenders in the world: Marc Álvarez (of El Barri/Adrià group fame) and Simone Caporale (of London’s Artesian). In their own words: “At Sips we make haute couture cocktails at 'prêt-à-porter' prices.”

Website / Insta / Muntaner, 108

Two Shmucks

Opened by a pair of friends, this neighbourhood dive bar in the Raval serves serious cocktails that don’t take themselves too seriously (despite being on the World’s 50 best bars list!).

Website / Insta / +34 934 76 47 77 / Carrer de Joaquín Costa, 52

Paradiso

Also on the list of World’s 50 Best Bars - Paradiso is a sophisticated speakeasy disguised behind the freezer of an unassuming pastrami shop.

Website / Insta / +34 933 60 72 22 / C/ de Rera Palau, 4


Things To Do

 
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Gaudi, Gaudi, Gaudi…

Gaudi was an absolute genius, who took so much inspiration from nature. His buildings and spaces are so unique and special that it is sacrilege not to visit. Perhaps stating the obvious but whether you are visiting Barcelona for the first time or need a regular top-up as a local, no guide to Barcelona could be complete without the big G.

 

The Sagrada Familia

The Sagrada Familia is the most incredible space I think I’ve ever seen - definitely book a time slot in advance to avoid any queues and walk right in. Magnificent (and still unfinished)!

Casa Batlló & La Pedrera

Casa Batllo and La Pedrera are two more unmissable sites, both designed as residential buildings on Passeo de Gracia. In the summer there are amazing jazz concerts on the rooftop of Casa Batlló at night.

Park Guell

Absolutely magnificent views over the city. Book in advance for a timeslot at the end of the day, just before sunset. The park quietens down right at dusk, leaving you with the park (almost) to yourself. We did a supremely romantic engagement shoot here before our wedding.

 

The Mies Van Der Rohe Pavillion

My mind cannot compute that this modernist masterpiece was created in 1929. It’s only tiny, but truly unmissable. *Holy moly I’ve just seen that you can hire it for private events!

Website / Insta / +34 93 215 10 11 / Provença 318

Moco Museum

With pieces by by Banksy, Haring, KAWS, Kusama, Warhol, Hirst and more - one of the most impressive contemporary museums I’ve spent time in.

Website / Insta / +34 936 29 18 58 / Carrer de Montcada, 25

 

 

Stay

My favourite neighbourhood has always been the Eixample - from here you can easily stroll through the Old Town / down into the Borne (another one of my favourite areas), and beyond to Port Vell and Barceloneta. It has fantastic Metro access to the whole city and the airport bus conveniently drops off + picks up here, so you can’t go wrong.

 
 

Casa Bonay

Set within a beautiful historic mansion on one of the Eixample’s iconic blocks, Casa Bonay is a beautifully designed hotel with a collective of Barcelona-based makers, entrepreneurs and designers at its heart.

With a juice bar, coffee roaster, tiny book shop, decadent hotel bar and more all within the same building, the hotel feels like a microcosm of the city itself. They’ve even struck up an agreement with a local sailing club offering free paddle boards to hotel guests down at Barceloneta. There is also a dreamy rooftop garden terrace with a series of outdoor showers and hammocks. I’ve stayed here many time and it feels like a home from home.

Website / Insta / +34 935 45 80 70 / Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes, 700

 
 

Casa Luz

This recently opened hotel is a stone’s throw from the MACBA Museum and world famous Boqueria market. Their sunny rooftop overlooks the Universitat and I love the warmth of the interiors.

Website / Insta / +34 676 90 93 10 / Ronda de la Universitat, 1

 
 
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Soho House Barcelona

Set right on the port, with super quick access to the beach as well as the Borne & Gothic Quarter. Like its’ many sister hotels around the world, SHB is design heaven - with soft furnishings and lighting to die for.

Website / Insta /+34 932 20 46 00 / Plaça del Duc de Medinaceli, 4

Margot House

Super homey, ultra discrete Margot House is located in a residential building directly opposite Gaudí’s iconic Casa Batlló. With just 9 all-white rooms, the Japandi inspired minimalism ensures a perpetually chilled atmosphere in one of Barcelona’s most popular hotspots.

Website / Insta / +34 9327 20076 / Paseo de Gracia 46

Numa Roca

A luscious mid-century retreat in the Eixample. They don’t have a traditional reception, instead embracing a “digital guest journey” with everything done via smartphone (definitely a bit of a marmite approach but super efficient). Stunning rooms and a mosaic-tiled patio make this an excellent value place to lay your head.

Website / Carrer de Girona 81 and 85

Praktik Bakery

Wake up to the smell of freshly baked bread in the world’s first hotel-bakery, 100m from Paseo de Gracia. With interiors by the indomnitable Lázaro Rosa-Violán, dreamy Praktik Bakery offers arguably the most delicious breakfast in the city and you can even learn how to make your own bread. 😭❤️

Website / Insta / +34 934 88 00 61 / Carrer de Provença, 279

 
 

Special mentions go to the Kimpton Vividora Hotel and the H10 Casa Mimosa for their stunning rooftop spaces, views and excellent value for money.

Where are your favourite places to spend time in Barcelona? I’m always looking for new places to try and would love to know any tips you might have!

 
 

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