A Weekend in Provence
I first visited idyllic St-Rémy on the most beautiful road trip through Provence with my two best friends. We stayed in a traditional Mas and spent three perfect days eating delicious food, laughing, roaming the countryside on bicycles, walking in the footsteps of Van Gogh, wine tasting and people watching from cafes with coffee and croissants in the numerous cobbled squares. It was perfect and I fell in love.
We returned for a few days last month and I fell in love all over again! Set within a rich landscape of vineyards and olive groves, St-Rémy dates back to the Roman Empire (note the telltale straight rows of ancient leafy Plane trees following the original roman route). The pace of life here is as gentle as the pastel hues of the buildings and it is the perfect place to stop and enjoy Provençal village life.
Here is my guide to spending a few days exploring beautiful St-Rémy de Provence and the surrounding Alpilles region. To get there I usually fly into Nice and make a road trip of it. I always use Skyscanner to compare and find the best possible flights (using the “whole month” search option when I’m flexible with dates).
*Disclosure: This article contains some affiliate links. I have carefully chosen each product featured and if you click through and choose make a purchase, will earn a (very small) commission, at no additional cost to you. I truly appreciate your support in this way, Merci Beaucoup xoxo.
What to Pack
Light breezy textures like linen and soft cottons in pastel shades to match the delicious creamy tones of St Remy. Midi and maxi length dresses are ideal for keeping cool (and not blowing up in the famously unpredictable warm winds that strike up in the region). Contrast dresses and coords with natural materials like hand woven baskets and rafia accessories (think wide brimmed hats, headbands and espadrille sandals) for a perfectly provencal aesthetic.
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Eat + Drink
Les Filles du Pâtissier
Owned by two sisters (literally daughters of a pastry chef), with bright vintage tables inspired by the sisters’ trips to India & Nepal. This sweet cafe is set in the main village square and serves the most delicious fresh salads and juices, switching to a wine bar with charcuterie in the evenings and live music in Place Fevrier on the occasional Summer night.
+33 06 50 61 07 17 / 3 Place Favier, St-Rémy de Provence
Gus
This buzzy modern French bistro feels quite Parisian, and looks like a real life space from Ratatouille. Gus is a local favourite known for its vibrant atmosphere and huge sharing platters of fruits de mer. If like me, shellfish are not your friends, there is a daily changing black board of simple, authentic French dishes, executed to perfection.
Website / +33 4 90 90 27 61 / 31 Boulevard Victor Hugo, Saint-Remy-de-Provence
I Fratelli
I Fratelli prides itself on serving Cuccina Popolare, traditional family style cooking. Their menu is filled with delicious regional Italian ingredients and the setting is very cool (with a rooftop terrace).
Website / +33 4 90 20 82 76 / 2c Rue Roger Salengro, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Mon Père Était Pâtissier
Father of the aforementioned sisters, Marc Maloyan trained as a pastry chef under legendary Paul Bocuse. I was lucky to attend a beautiful supper club (or “table du chef”) he hosted at Hotel Sous le Figuier (pictured above). He has since set up his own restaurant in Mas-Blanc-les-Alpilles with a magical terrace. His menu changes daily.
FB / +33 7 89 77 54 99 / Mas-Blanc-les-Alpilles
Pizza Brun
The best pizza in the area, located in the neighbouring village of Maussane-Les-Alpilles. Owner Bruno is a master Pizzaiolo so unsurprisingly there is almost always a queue for his wood fired creations. They also do take-aways if the outdoor terrace is full, just phone ahead to order for pick-up.
FB / +33 4 90 54 40 73 / 1 Rue Edouard Foscalina, 13520 Maussane-les-Alpilles
Comptoir 36
Owners Charles-Henri and Nesrine are proud to serve up fresh, organic dishes and are particularly known for their unbeatable crêpes and friendly service.
Website / +33 490 944 112 / 36 avenue du Maréchal Juin, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Maison Cambillau
The best Boulangerie in Saint-Rémy, serving warm, perfectly crusty baguettes, rosemary-covered fougasse (like a local focaccia) and flakey pastries. Ideal for popping out in the morning for breakfast or making up a takeaway picnic to take on a countryside bike ride. They also do fantastic patisserie birthday cakes, Galettes des Rois at New Year and beautiful chocolate creations at Easter.
FB / 1 Rue Carnot, St-Rémy de Provence
Michel Marshall
Magnificent, delicate French Pâtisserie at its very best. Michel Marshall has trained under some of the most iconic names (including my favourite lord of the macaroons, Pierre Herme🤤). His salon de thé is the perfect place to indulge in jewel-like desserts and also serves salads, savoury tartes and terrines at lunch.
Website / +33 4 90 95 03 54 / 2, Place Joseph Hilaire, Saint-Rémy de Provence
L’Aile Ou La Cuisse
This family-run, old-school brasserie feels like stepping back in time. Truly authentic French cuisine, served with a gastronomic twist.
Website / +34 4 32 62 00 25 / 5 Rue de la Commune Saint Rémy de Provence
Some other culinary highlights include…
Chez Fanny: Home to one of the prettiest shady terraces, Chez Fanny is one of my favourite lunch spots in St-Rémy, with a daily blackboard of specials.
Crêperie Lou Planet : Located on Place Fevrier, like Comptoir 36, Lou Planet also make delicious crêpes, (though not Bio) so definitely recommend trying both - ideally one after the other, for as many crepes as you can eat before making your own mind up. 🙈
Cafe de la Place: This laid-back cafe on the Place de la République is hugely popular with locals, serving coffee, wine and tasty Provençal fare.
Le Moulin de Sophie: Romantically set within an old mill, chef Sophie presents tasty, simple dishes made from fresh, local products. Warm, authentic service.
Do
Visit an Olive Oil Mill
The Moulin du Calanquet is a historic, family-owned domaine run by Anne and Gilles Brun. They produce some of the most delicious olive oil in the area and offer fun tastings and tours. I dare you to leave without buying anything - c’est impossible!
Website / +33 4 32 60 09 50 / Vieux Chemin d’Arles 13210 Saint-Rémy de Provence
Wine Tasting
We love wine Tasting at Château Romanin - a unique vineyard built somewhat like a bond villain’s lair (complete with cathedral-like cave á vin excavated from the rock with dynamite, and a giant eye shaped sky-light). Stunning views of the Mont Ventoux Valley.
Website / +33 4 90 92 69 57 / SC Château Romanin, CS 70000
13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Adventures On Two Wheels
Rent normal or electric bikes and cycle through the stunning region - we did a 50km circuit on e-bikes via les Beaux de Provence, past olive groves, vineyards and the dramatic landscape of Les Alpilles. Sun-e-bikes also offer guided tours but will provide you with a free app and itinerary too!
Website / +33 4 32 62 08 39 / 2 rue Camille Pelletan. 13210 Saintt-Rémy de Provence
Cycling through from Les Baux de Provence to Egalyières, June 2021 (in my fabulous Delicate Rébellion Dreamers Cap!)
The Van Gogh Trail
Van Gogh spent much of his time in Provençe living at the asylum in St-Rémy. The Saint Paul de Mausole monastery is open to the public and you can visit the sparse room where the artist lived. The austere space is such a contrast to the vibrant colours of the natural surroundings he painted. Saint-Rémy also has its very own guided audio tours available for hire, including The Van Gogh Walk.
Website / +33 4 90 92 77 00 / Saint-Paul de Mausole, Chemin Saint-Paul, 13210, Saint-Rémy de Provence
Carriere des Lumières
Carrière des Lumières is an incredible space within a former limestone quarry, where swirling, moving projections of iconic artworks are projected onto the expansive walls, ceiling and floor. Their programme changes each season to highlight the works of a specific artist and it is a really unique experience. It gets a little chilly inside so dress warmly.
Website / +33 4 90 49 20 03 / Route de Maillane, 13520 Les Baux-de-Provence
The Local Market
Every Wednesday, Boulevard Victor Hugo through the centre of Saint-Rémy is filled with stalls selling local produce, cheeses, sauccison, wine and crafts; a quintessentially Provençal local market.
On Tuesday evenings in the summer there is also a market for local designers and makers on the Place de la Marie and the Eygalières market happens every Friday morning (the views from the village are magnifique - definitely buy provisions for a picnic).
Beautiful Carrière des Lumières showing Cezanne and Kandinsky, June 2021.
Reading List
Escapist reads + coffee table books of dreams…
Stay
La Maison du Village
This elegant 1750s townhouse hotel has been renovated so beautifully, incorporating high-end contemporary design touches while remaining true to the property’s antique heritage. The “hidden” walled courtyard is a dreamy setting for Pain-Au-Chocolat breakfasts and getting lost in a novel.
Le Petit Bijou is an adjacent home-away-from-home property also available for rent in the village.
Website / Insta / +33 4 32 60 68 20 / 10 Rue du Huit Mai 1945, 13210 Saint-Rémy de Provence
Mas Saint Joseph
Run by lovely owner Chantal, this converted Mas is a fantastic Provençal gem on the edge of the town centre. With rooms appointed in soothing neutrals and thoughtful local touches, mostly overlooking the swimming pool and terrace, this beautiful hotel makes a wonderful base when visiting St-Rémy.
Website / +33 4 90 92 13 43 / 271 Route de Maillane - 13210 Saint-Rémy de Provence
Hotel de la Tourrel
Historic Hotel de la Tourrel is a stunningly renovated 17th century Palais in the heart of St-Rémy. With a rooftop swimming pool, impressive wine bar and unique interiors mixing clean contemporary lines with the textured old stone walls, this unique boutique hotel is a spectacular find.
Website / +33 4 84 35 07 20 / 5 Rue Carnot, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Sous Le Figuier
Sous Le Figuier, or 'Under The Fig Trees' feels like staying in a big Provençal house, with beautiful stylish rooms (opt for the ones with their own private patios) and a charming, friendly feel.
Website / +33 4 32 60 15 40 / 3 Avenue Gabriel Saint-René Taillandier, Saint-Rémy de Provence
Château des Alpilles
Magnificent Château des Alpilles is a luxurious retreat just a few minutes from the centre of town. Their magnificent Plane tree-lined driveway is reminiscent of a Marcel Pagnol novel and the service is truly 5*.
Their beautiful poolside restaurant is open to non-guests if you are staying elsewhere.
Website / +33 4 90 92 03 33 / Route de Rougadou, St-Rémy de Provence
Have you spent time in Saint-Rémy de Provence? I would love to know any of your own top tips and recommendations for this beautiful corner of France.
Heading South? Here are some of the most stunning historic villas on the French Riviera. If you are off to La Capitale next, here is my guide to the best hidden bars in Paris.
*Disclosure: This article contains some affiliate links. I have carefully chosen each product featured and if you click through and choose make a purchase, will earn a (very small) commission, at no additional cost to you. I truly appreciate your support in this way, Merci Beaucoup xoxo.
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